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BW Travel Guide: London

NorCalVU10

VUSports.com All-American
Nov 12, 2007
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I'm headed to London for a week in May and am looking for suggestions/recommendations.

What tourist traps are worthwhile? Which should be skipped?

Restaurants/Neigborhoods/Bars to check out?

I am hoping to catch one premier league match. I'm deciding between Arsenal and Chelsea home games-which is a better experience? Pre/Post game/stadium atmosphere/location?

All insight is appreciated.

I also plan on doing a 2 day trip up to Edinburgh midweek.

This post was edited on 3/23 10:00 AM by NorCalVU10
 
Few years ago I did a game at Chelsea Bridge. Can't say enough good things about the experience. It's literally in the neighborhood. As a result, the pre/post-game bar scene was great. One of the coolest sporting experiences not involving my team. Pay whatever it takes and go. I'd also recommend seeing a show in the West End. Get your culture on as it's worth it. Walk the entire city. The tube is great and I used it. However, the last over with my wife we walked almost every corner of the city. Go have a few pints in Nodding Hill, walk through the parks and experience all you can on foot. Great way to see the city. London is very cool in that it's neighborhoodie so they are each a bit different. I would go on but that is my overview.
 
Good Fish and Chips:
http://www.northseafishrestaurant.co.uk/restaurant-menu

Borough Market: Go Saturday.
http://boroughmarket.org.uk/

Steak Sandwich & Gastropub:
http://www.theeaglefarringdon.co.uk/
 
Originally posted by kjbert:

Curry mile or whatever it's called.
I think that's in Manchester but the Indian food I've had in London is top-notch. Fish 'n Chips is fine there too but you can always find a decent "chippy" in the states.
 
I am hoping to catch one premier league match. I'm deciding between Arsenal and Chelsea home games-which is a better experience? Pre/Post game/stadium atmosphere/location?

The EPL season will be almost over in May (last game is May 24) and Chelsea is up 6 points with a game in hand on Manchester City. It's very unlikely that they drop enough points to lose the title (there are no "playoffs"), but the best obvious game to go to would be Chelsea v. Liverpool at Stamford Bridge May 9.

Arsenal's place in the top four - the goal of teams that cannot win the league outright to get to play in the Champions League - is not guaranteed, so they could be a better option (vs. Swansea City May 9, vs. Sunderland May 20). However, the best match Arsenal has coming up is at Old Trafford, Manchester - vs. Manchester United May 16.
 
I believe Krazy Kat lives/lived there for a number of years. may want to post a thread to his attention for some local input.
 
Originally posted by TheDean:

the best obvious game to go to would be Chelsea v. Liverpool at Stamford Bridge May 9.
This is the game I am targeting. Anyone have suggestions for tickets? Looks like they don't go on sale until April.
 
Originally posted by NorCalVU10:
Originally posted by TheDean:

the best obvious game to go to would be Chelsea v. Liverpool at Stamford Bridge May 9.
This is the game I am targeting. Anyone have suggestions for tickets? Looks like they don't go on sale until April.
I used my concierge through Am Ex. Not cheap but I knew I could trust it and not pay if something happened with the tickets.
 
Lived there for three years.

Recommend:
- British Museum
- Tower of London
- Westminster Abbey and walk up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square
- Chelsea at Stamford Bridge, Fulham at Craven Cottage
- Hampstead Heath and several pubs nearby including The Spaniards and Holy Bush
- catch a show in the West End which is far superior to NYC
- Churchill's War Room
- Covent Garden
- get a weekly tube pass for zones 1 and 2
- Imperial War Museum
- boat ride to Hampton Court
- day trip to Bath from Paddington Station

Over-rated/Avoid:
- Madame Tusaud's
- restaurants serving English food (there are plenty of great ethnic restaurants
- most West End pubs (they cater to tourists)
- 221B Baker Street (it does not exist and there are several nearby tourist traps)
- London Dungeons and most anything related to Jack the Ripper (speaks for itself)

Don't spend your budget money on the hotel as you should only be sleeping there. Find a smaller hotel that serves a "proper English breakfast". Some pubs serve good meals. Find small restaurants in out of the way locations especially Thai, Indian, French and Italian.
 
Enjoy some haggis while in Edinburgh, just be aware that you'll be a walking stink bomb for a few days afterwards.

Agree with the walking suggestions. Best way to see they city. If you get too lost, you can always jump in a cab.
 
Just ventured over here and saw this thread...too many suggestions so take your pick...some depend on if solo and single or have/with family. Many others not listed that can't think of right now. Agree with PeterN suggestions.

MUST Do's
Borough Market - Saturday has the most traders there so will get more selections but it is packed. Go earlier. Friday is more civilised but not as many traders are there so can miss out on some choices. My go-to items are the venison burgers and chorizo sandwiches - get a double. Monmouth Coffee is probably the best espresso in London; have to try that. A couple good pubs there
Spaniards Inn @ Hampstead Heath - for a roast brunch on Sunday. Old, historic pub with good beer selection and outdoor beer garden. Bishops Avenue afterward to see some of the priciest mansions in London, most of which are second homes owned by middle east oil magnates. The Old Bull & Bush pub is also nearby closer to Golders Green station.
Hampstead High Street - La Creperie de Hampstead for some great crepes. Small, outdoor truck in front of William IV pub. Always has a queue. In addition, there are many good pubs to hit in the area.
British Museum and Natural History Museum
The White Horse Tavern @ Parson's Green
- great pub with huge beer selection and great food. Nicknamed the Sloany Pony for its location near Sloane Square and usually filled with Chelsea supporters on match days.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese - pub located off Fleet Street in side alley. One of the oldest. Lots of character and many famous writers have been regulars there - Twain, Dickens, Sir Conan Arthur Doyle to name a few.
Ye Olde Mitre - tiny hard to find pub off Hatton Garden (diamond area) but tons of character and officially not located in London but Cambridgeshire. http://yeoldemitreholborn.co.uk/about
River boat from Embankment to Greenwich - decent boat tour along the River Thames and end up in historic Greenwich with Cutty Sark boat displayed, National Maritime Museum, and many nice pubs along the river.
RAF Museum - great museum showing many of the airplanes used by the RAF during its history. Doesn't sound too exciting but really is a fascinating. Went there many times.
Tower of London
Jermyn Street/Saville Row
- pick up great business shirts. TM Lewin are good quality at reasonable price
St. Paul's Cathedral


Other Recommendations
Oxo Tower - great restaurant with views over Thames
Coq D'Argent - rooftop bar/restaurant in City at 1 Poultry (between Cheapside and Queen Victoria Street)
Upper Street near Angel Station - if in the mood for a bar crawl, many bars in this area
Tayyabs - great Pakistani BBQ restaurant near Whitechapel station
Brick Lane - this is where a concentration of Indian curry restaurants are located, near Shoreditch High Street station
Hawksmoor (Spitafields) or Goodman's (Maddox Street off Upper Regent Street) - best steaks in London - avoid Gaucho steakhouses
Waxy O'Connor's - cool Irish pub near Leicester Square
Bodeans - American BBQ around Soho and usually has American sports on TV
The Big Easy - American BBQ in Chelsea; known for all-you-can-eat ribs at a decent price (used to be about £12 on Mondays)
The Waffle House (St. Alban's) - take a train out to St. Alban's for some countryside breakfast with a great selection of different waffles, walk in the nearby park, and have a pint at the oldest pub (arguably) in Britain - Ye Olde Fighting Cocks. About 40 minutes from London.
The Porterhouse - Maiden Lane in Covent Garden. Irish bar with live music, multi levels and great beer selection
The Lowlander Cafe - Drury Lane. Belgian cafe with many beers, high ceilings and long tables
De Hems - Dutch pub off Shaftesbury Avenue on Macclesfield Street
Smiths of Smithfields - lively bar with good food. Many other pubs in this area.
Bar Italia - Soho. Great destination after drinking. Just go, once.
Lords Cricket Ground Tour - St. John's Wood. Home of Cricket, equivalent historically to Yankee Stadium. Abbey Road is nearby.
Ronnie Scott's - if you like jazz music
Shopping Mall - Westfield
Windsor Castle


General Information
Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square are the equivalent of Times Square in NYC. Touristy and overpriced but can find a few good spots in the area. Sports Cafe used to be on Haymarket. Had 100 TV's with all major sporting events shown but believe closed and/or under a new name now. Oxford Street has tons of shopping but is an absolute madhouse. Big retailers up there, though, like John Lewis, Selfridges, and Debenhams. Bond Street right nearby for higher end shopping and less crowds. Tottenham Court Road is the electronics area. Hatton Gardens for diamonds and other jewellery. Docklands/Canary Wharf is the new financial centre and has many restaurants and bars. There is a cool pub in Covet Garden next to Punch & Judy's (to the left if looking at the bar from the market) but can't recall the name of it. It is small, and has a maritime theme but quaint and cozy with good views over Covent Garden and without the crowd of Punch & Judy's. There is a cornish pastry shop at the base of the pub.

Anything else specific you want to know about?
 
Krazy Kat...number of good calls above. I completely agree on the RAF Museum. I completely embarrassed myself at the William IV pub in Hamstead. Having just moved in down the street I decided to check it out for a quick pint. It wasn't until I ordered my London Pride that I noticed everyone but me was wearing black, mostly leather. At the time it was a gay/transgender pub--- nothing wrong with that but the new American stood out like a sore thumb. I did finish the pint before strolling out the door.
 
KrazyKay, PeterN, et al,

Appreciate the insight. Definitely some good stuff. For a little more color, I'll be travelling with my girlfriend, visiting a friend who lives in Shoreditch.

I'm having a tough time navigating the ticket market for Chelsea/Liverpool on May 9. If I'm not a hot shot like adp, any recommendations on getting tickets?
 
NorCal,

I am pretty sure Chelsea v. Liverpool is Sunday, May 10th. Regardless you will have to pay a small fortune to get into Stamford Bridge. Chrystal Palace v. ManU the day before might be an option. "Ticket touts" are a big industry over there.

Shoreditch is in East London It used to be a dump but has become gentrified in recent years with a number of tech companies. You are in walking distance to good curry on Brick Lane.
 
I left that little tidbit out about William IV, PeterN. Apt beer to order showing your 'pride' there...lol. You played it cool, though, finishing your pint and moving on.

I think this was mentioned above, but get an Oyster Travel Card to use on the tube and buses:

http://www.londonpass.com/london-transport/oyster-card.html?aid=26&gclid=CjwKEAjw3YipBRDL2bHhjLmFkQsSJADtzktjlrWS7ZKKvNb6DZ2Xom1XXfvya4QXszfgZONlYHwuWRoCJprw_wcB

From the airport, I would take the Heathrow Express to Paddington and get a taxi from there. Black cabs will cost about £75 on the meter. A mini cab might be about £40 depending on your destination.

Black cabs are pricey but safe. The drivers are supposed to be professional and take you the absolute quickest route to your destination but upon hearing your accent some may try to take advantage to earn a few extra quid. There really is no way to argue with them either because the streets in London are so numerous and convoluted that there are multiple ways to get from point A to point B. They will get cross and even ask you which way they should go (it happened and not worth it unless you absolutely know where you are going - which also happened one time and the driver was not at all pleased about being called out but I should have reported him for trying to completely rip me off).

Mini cabs are sort of like Uber. Private drivers not affiliated with black cabs. Their prices can be a bit cheaper as they compete with the black cabs for business and you negotiate and agree a price to pay before departing. This works if you know the general costs for certain distances. Some can be shady, so best to book in advance vs. picking one soliciting off the street.

http://www.tfl.gov.uk/modes/taxis-and-minicabs/
 
As PeterN stated, good luck getting a ticket to that match without paying a small fortune. Even with Man U at Crystal Palace. If you do happen to go to any match, make sure you cheer your a$$ off for the home team or risk the repercussions from the home faithful. Even if you are a Man U or Liverpool fan. Seriously. Incidents of abuse at NFL games are minor league comparatively.

If you are with the girlfriend, I would definitely go to Oxo Tower for dinner. Would also check out Vertigo42 at the NatWest Tower along Bishopsgate - champagne bar with great views across London. Need a reservation and good for a 90 minute time slot (IIRC). http://www.vertigo42.co.uk/#reservations. Take her to Harrod's and Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly for afternoon tea. Spaniards Inn and Hampstead Heath for Sunday brunch. Another nice place is the Orange Tree in Totteridge Village for that English countryside dining environment. It is a fantastic part of Greater London accessible via the Northern Line, High Barnet branch: http://www.theorangetreetotteridge.co.uk
http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/area-guides/greater-london/spotlight-totteridge

I would avoid the Notting Hill area. Very touristy and lots of touts around there looking for naive tourists. Nothing special but the name of a movie.

The Richmond area in SW London is nice and the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew are near there.

I think you should have enough to chew on for now... :)
 
KrazyKat,

Do/did you live there? We lived in two locations in Hampstead thanks to an ex-pat's allowance. We first lived on Gayton Road about two hundred yards from the High Street. 250 yards from William IV! We later moved to Reddington Road which made for a longer walk to the Hampstead Tube.
 
Originally posted by PeterN:
NorCal,

I am pretty sure Chelsea v. Liverpool is Sunday, May 10th. Regardless you will have to pay a small fortune to get into Stamford Bridge. Chrystal Palace v. ManU the day before might be an option. "Ticket touts" are a big industry over there.

Shoreditch is in East London It used to be a dump but has become gentrified in recent years with a number of tech companies. You are in walking distance to good curry on Brick Lane.
It is indeed may 10 (could have sworn it was originally scheduled for Saturday). Seeing as I am departing the afternoon of the 10th, that's out of the cards anyway. I have no loyalty to any Premier League team (because I'm American), so I have every intention to hop on the home team bandwagon.

Looks like my options for a game are Chelsea v CP on May 3, Tottenham v Man U on May 3, or CP v Man U on May 9.

What is your definition of a small fortune?
 
PeterN,
I lived in London from 2002-2010 @ Maida Vale, Hampstead Garden Suburb, and North Finchley.

NorCalVU10,
A quick look online and tickets for Man U vs. Crystal Palace range from £135 - £230 (away section, so root for Man U). The Tottenham vs. Man City tickets seem a bit more reasonable on StubHub and would be a better match to see.
 
KrazyKat,

Awesome stuff. I am moving the family over to London this summer for a few years. Hampstead or Sloane Square are looking like the places we may settle, like PeterN thanks to a good expat housing allowance.
 
Jiggie,

Maida Vale and Hampstead Garden Suburb should also be considered though the latter makes for a longer commute.
 
jiggie,
Great you are moving there and getting an ex-pat allowance. Enjoy your time. Takes a bit to adjust but once you do it is a good experience.

Next to Maida Vale (east) is St. John's Wood, which is also worth looking into. American International School is right there, Marylebone is south and Swiss Cottage just north with Primrose Hill nearby. I believe St. John's Wood High Street is only (or one of a few) that does not allow buses to travel through the area. Many shops, cafes, and a few bars there.

Putney/Parsons Green is also worth checking out on the south side. The White Horse Tavern at Parsons Green is a great restaurant and pub with 100+ bottled beers and very good food. Usually has BBQ outside in summer time with burgers, sausages, etc. and the Green right there for kids to play (was a destination after our softball games at Hurlingham Park).

Good luck!
 
KrazyKat,

Did you connect with etown1000? He mostly posts on the pay board. There is a good chance he is moving to Singapore.
 
Was in Singapore for work a few months ago. That has to be the worst place to live in Asia.
Posted from Rivals Mobile
 
PeterN,
No, haven't connected with etown1000. I'm not a member of and don't post on the pay board as rarely post on these free ones.
If he is moving to Singapore and wants any guidance, he can reach out to me here or via Krazykat723@gmail.com.


jiggie,
One other place in London I always thought would be 'cool' to live in is the Barbican. Not the most attractive place, but centrally located, and insulated to a degree with, from what I understand, fairly nice flats. It is not for everyone but has a certain character and appeal to some. Post Code EC1 if doing a search for housing. Here's an article from the WSJ.

WSJ: Barbican Living Gains Following
 
Originally posted by TMJ45:
Was in Singapore for work a few months ago. That has to be the worst place to live in Asia.
Posted from Rivals Mobile
Why do you say that TMJ45? From your experience, where do you know would be better places to live in Asia? Tokyo with the radiation fallout from Fukushima and lack of English spoken? Beijing with the poor air quality, as well as Shanghai? Hong Kong with lack of seats for kids in international schools and also air quality issues?

It is actually the best place in Asia to live (at least if you work in financial services, oil & gas, shipping - import/export, venture capital, and technology). It is really a 'paradise' place. I can understand if one is single it might not be as appealing as, say, Hong Kong (where I also lived when I was single, as well as Tokyo). But if you are married and have a family it is absolutely the best place to be in Asia, and the world - far better than the US these days. But one has to be adaptable to other cultures and environments to accept that and sadly many are not. I know many Americans and Europeans who have been in Singapore and/or Asia for 15+ years and with no regrets.
English is the first languageClean, safe, friendly, fantastic school system (local and international), no major weather disasters, no smog, and constant 75-85 degrees year-roundAt the equator and consistent sunrise/sunset at 07:00 and 19:30 every dayHighest tax bracket is only 20% for those making $320k+ for any income over that amount. Average is about 10% - 15% for those making $200k - $500k and you pay it monthly starting the year after earned and assessed (e.g., starting April 2015 for 2014 income).Cheap taxis, MRT, great food at reasonable prices, vibrant ex-pat communities and social hangouts in Boat Quay, Clarke Quay, Robertson Quay, East Coast Park, Orchard RoadIt has the best airport in the world. Never took more than 20 minutes to dock, disembark, get through immigration, pick up luggage and exit customs and get a taxi. Remarkably efficient and clean. Many Americans here and the American International School campus in The Woodlands is unbelievable. 3,500 students and looks like a campus in Beverly Hills. Softball for nine months with tournaments in Bangkok, Manila, and Jakarta (all 2-3 hour cheap flights) with other American teams from those locations and Hong Kong, Tokyo, Vietnam, China, Korea, etc. Total guys' weekends.Many kids soccer academies with great training and tournaments in AsiaCondo living with amenities galore. My complex (Costa Del Sol) has a doctor, mini mart, cleaners, gym, spa, cafe, 6 BBQ pits, 5 swimming pools including a 13' diving pool and 50 meter lap pool, 3 tennis courts, taxi stand, putting green, and golf driving nets all on-site and private access to an underpass across the East Coast Parkway to the East Coast Park which looks out to the South China Sea and has hawker centers, restaurants, bars, a wakeboard park, miniature golf, cycling paths, etc. Within 4 hour flights are the Maldives, Vietnam, Hong Kong, Bali, Bangkok, Phuket, etc. I can go on and on. Really, the worst place in Asia to live based on your work visit for what, one week? I have no problem with the 'strictness' of the laws as it creates a very civil environment that I appreciate.
 
Krazy Kat, what do you do for a living? Have you lived elsewhere besides London, Singapore, and HK? How often do you come back to the USA. Where are you from?
 
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